In this Article
INTRO
Skincare can be such an intimidating world, especially for beginners. Not to mention the various interpretations the term "skincare" may have depending on who you ask. In this guide, we cover all the BASICS of building a skin routine, meaning explanations of universal "rules" that apply across the board regardless of skin type and goals. These rules include introducing product types, how-to's on building morning and evening routines, plus information on how to find your skin type. We've intended to answer your most basic questions about skincare —even the ones you may be too embarrassed to ask anyone else.
⭐SKINCARE ROUTINES ARE UNIQUE⭐
It can become frustrating if you find yourself following the skincare routine of an influencer with "glass skin" to a T and still don't get the result you want. The reason for skincare not being one size fits all can be blamed on the different combinations we each have of skin conditions, skin types, lifestyles, and so on. Your routine should be just that, your routine. Blindly using products without any background knowledge of how to use them can end up causing damage to your skin (and wallet).
WHAT IS SKINCARE AND WHY IS IT IMPORTANT?
When starting with skincare, sticking to a daily routine may seem like a daunting task. The number of products on the market is entirely staggering, but rest assured, having a basic skincare routine is essential for wellbeing, both cosmetic and medical. A bonus is many people find mental health benefits in doing a skincare routine, helping to build healthy habits muscles. On the physical side, day after day, internal and external elements beat up on our skin, in addition to the thousands of cells we shed daily. A routine can help combat damage, eliminate dead skin cells, prevent acne and wrinkles, and keep skin glowing. Sound good, right?
So what is a "skincare routine" anyway? Skincare routines are a carefully selected sequence of products used consistently, meant to address concerns, treat conditions, and improve or maintain skin health. As mentioned, skincare routines are personalized to the person, so; two people rarely have the same rituals week to week. That would mean using the same products day and night, exfoliating and masking on the same days, plus using the same treatments when needed.
INTRO TO PRODUCT TYPES
Each product has a job/function for which it's been formulated. Yes, order matters, but we'll get into that later.
CLEANSER
Used to dissolve make-up and dirt, purify pores, and prep skin for other products, cleansers are arguably the most utilized skincare product. A cleanser might contain added ingredients to treat concerns and counteract skin problems. There are three main types of cleansers—
- Gel Cleansers: Usually water-based in the formulation and described as "foaming." Gels dissolve oil and leave skin feeling clean. Gel cleansers are ideal for normal, combo, and oily skin types, although it depends on the composition.
- Oil Cleansers: These are, you guessed it, oil-based. Because of oil's practical ability to remove debris, oil cleansers are generally used to break down harder to remove products like make-up and sunscreen.
- Cream Cleansers: Cream cleansers are perfect for dry skin but may not do the job for oily skin. They are usually thick, creamy, and contain moisturizing ingredients. The richness of the configuration calls for effective removal, so no residue is left on the skin. A sub-category called lotion or "milky" cleansers are thinner in consistency and can be used on normal and sensitive skin.
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TONER
Toners are an optional product that got their popularity a long time ago for restoring the skins' pH after cleansing, although cleansers no longer throw skin out of wack (or it shouldn't). In the passed toners have been perceived as drying, but they've come a long way. If you have dry or sensitive skin, stay away from a product labeled an astringent altogether (odds are it contains alcohol). On the other hand, skin that produces excess oil will benefit from an alcohol formula, but not too often. Toners can be called mist or refreshers; these tend to be water-based and have hydrating properties
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SERUM
Although they are indeed optional, I love serums. They are super-concentrated, nutrient-dense products designed to penetrate deep for maximum results. Serums are made with high amounts of performance ingredients to boost the health and vibrancy of the skin. There are exfoliating serums, antioxidant serums, hydrating serums, brightening serums, anti-aging serums, and the list goes on.
HOW TO CHOOSE A SERUM
- It can be easy to say you need it all, same! Using a product with high concentration is cause for carefulness since using too many can lead to irritation and break down the skin barrier. If you have two concerns, you'd like to treat, pick a primary concern and use the serum to address it in the evening and for the secondary problem, use a different serum in the morning.
- Another popular option among skin experts and enthusiasts is tailoring your needs seasonally by fighting hydration and pigmentation in the summer, then exfoliation and anti-aging in the winter.
AGELESS total anti-aging serum
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EYECARE
You can certainly survive without an eye cream, but just an FYI, the eyes have the thinnest tissue on the face, and it needs to be taken care of. Eye creams are beneficial in protecting that delicate tissue and help treat cosmetic concerns like puffiness, firmness, fine lines, and wrinkles.
PURPOSE OF EYE CARE
- Caffeine, peptides, and hyaluronic acid can help soothe undereye bags and inflammation. Sometimes car circles are hereditary but can be improved with brightening ingredients like vitamin c, kojic acid, and niacinamide.
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MOISTURIZER
Utilizing a moisturizer is an essential step in every skincare routine. The primary benefits of a moisturizer include hydration, nourishment, and locking in moisture. Moisturizers are also crucial for balancing the oil-water content of the skin. How heavy the product will depend on your skin type, normal and dry skin can use heavier cream consistencies, and oilier skin types need light lotions or gel formulas.
- Difference between a day and night cream: Day creams contain ingredients like antioxidants to protect the skin throughout the day from environment and pollutants and be lighter weight vs. a night cream. Night creams will focus on repairing damage and nourishing the skin.
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EXFOLIANTS
Exfoliating can be super confusing when just starting, but it's a crucial step in a skincare routine. Exfoliants are responsible for getting rid of dead skin cells and preventing accumulation. The build-up of dead skin cells causes dullness in appearance and flakiness in texture. Exfoliators are classified into types, physical and chemical. Chemical exfoliants like acids and enzymes dissolve bonds between dead skin cells, the dead skin cells are then loosened and slaught off to reveal a more radiant complexion. Physical exfoliants require manual manipulation to eliminate dead skin cells on the surface. In general, acne-prone and sensitive skin types respond better to chemical exfoliation since they are less likely to irritate. You can indeed incorporate both physical and chemical exfoliants in your routine but not on the same day. Over exfoliation can lead to damage of the skin barrier and sensitized skin; on the other hand, under exfoliating will result in clogged pores and dull skin.
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MASKS
Are face masks worth the hype? Some estheticians and derms believe masks are an extra, "cosmetic" step not needed in a skincare routine. While they are not necessary, I've personally seen masks do wonders for myself and my clients; it's all about choosing a face mask formulated with ingredients for your concerns. People use masks at various frequencies; this Hydrogel sheet mask from Image Skincare can be used daily, while this Retinol Mask from Skin Script RX only needs to be utilized one to two times a week.
FACE OIL
Designed for superior hydration and packed with nutrients, face oils are dry skins' secret weapon. Not all face oils are created equal; oils with added fragrances and essential oils can irritate. Facial oils aren't just for dry skin; all skin types can benefit from using one. For oilier skin and skin easier to break out, you'd want to use lighter oils like marula oil.
VITAL C hydrating facial oil
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SUNSCREEN
Although SPF is the product applied last in all skincare routines, it's the most important. Sunscreens protect skin from UV rays (too much exposure can lead to skin cancer), prevents signs of pre-mature aging like sunspots and wrinkles, aid in fighting the deterioration of elastin and collagen, plus helps prevent free radical damage.
SUNSCREEN TIPS
- Use sunscreen every day, even when raining or cloudy.
- Don't forget your eyes, lips, and ears.
- Reapply every few hours.
- Apply 15-30 minutes before sun exposure.
- Don't use expired sunscreen.
- Always SPF 30 or higher.
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STEPS TO A SKINCARE ROUTINE
A routine will slightly change depending on the person following it, and no, you don't need to use every single one of the products described above. Your skincare routine can be as straightforward or as long as you'd like it to be. A routine only needs three steps in the morning and two at night. An example of a three-step morning routine is cleansing, applying an antioxidant serum, and using a moisturizer with broad-spectrum protection of at least SPF 30. The ultimate minimalist may skip the serum. At night, it's only essential to cleanse then moisturize. Okay, now, maybe you want to address specific concerns, or perhaps you like the pampering of a long routine (like me); you just need to ensure your products are layered correctly.
LAYERING SKINCARE PRODUCTS
The main difference between morning and evening routines is the purpose you're using the products. Daytime skincare is all about protection and preservation. In contrast, nighttime skincare aims to address skin issues before the regenerative process of sleep begins.
One significant differentiation of day and night skincare routines is the widespread practice of double cleansing. Double cleansing, which is just like it sounds, is cleansing twice, once with an oil cleanser or make-up remover, following up with a more specialized cleanser. Double downing on cleansing in the evening helps ensure the removal of make-up, pollutants, and other skincare products. The primary cleanse lifts dirt and grime, then the secondary washes them away.
ORDER MATTERS
Skincare experts agree it's essential to order your products correctly, but why is it so important? Because you want to ensure that your skin receives the full benefits of each product. Only a small amount of ingredients can penetrate the skin. Layering skincare incorrectly will lead to the products not working near as effectively, meaning you will not see the best results from your skincare regimen.
CORRECT ORDER OF PRODUCTS
MORNING
- Cleanser
- Toner
- Antioxidant Serum
- Eye Cream
- Moisturizer
- Face Oil
- Sunscreen
NIGHT
- Cleanser (1)
- Cleanser (2)
- Toner
- Exfoliant (when it applies)
- Face masks (when it applies)
- Eye Cream
- Serums/Treatments
- Moisturizer or Night Cream
HOW TO IDENTIFY YOUR SKIN TYPE
NORMAL
What does "normal" skin even mean? Normal skin is most accurately characterized by what it's not. If your skin is generally neither dry nor oily, it's considered to be normal. This healthy skin type is well-balanced with even levels of oil and hydration with a smooth texture.
- No sensitivity
- Few breakouts monthly
- Fine pores
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DRY
Dry skin has a lack of oil production, resulting in flaky patches and a rough appearance. Dry skin needs some extra TLC because of the missing natural protection of sebum (oil) and a compromised outer skin barrier leading to sensitivity. When treating dry skin, stimulation of oil production is essential. Dry skin can be caused by genetics, weather, and age, among other things. Dry skin is often used alongside dehydrated skin, which is a condition of skin lacking water (not oil); all skin types can suffer from dehydration.
- Uneven texture
- Itching, flaky
- Skin feels tight
OILY
Oily skin has some kick-ass sebum-producing capabilities caused mainly by genetics but can be affected by climate, hormones, and improper use of products. Yes, you do need to moisturize oily skin; using a moisturizer regularly will keep your skin hydrated and prevent it from overproducing sebum. A pro-tip for oily skin is to wash your face two times a day to remove dirt and bacteria that may clog your pores with a gentle foaming cleanser. The cleanse is crucial as you don't want to strip your natural oils, yet you want thorough cleansing.
- Prone to breakouts
- Greasy in appearance
- Pores seem large/open
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COMBO
Odds are the majority of people have combination skin, meaning you have different skin types occurring at the same time; it can be oily and normal or dry and oily. The most typical indication of combination skin is an oily T-zone (cheeks, nose, and forehead). You want to balance the oil-water balance of combo skin with regular exfoliation and adequate hydration.
- Oily T-zone
- Breakouts only on forehead, chin, and nose
- Sensitive cheeks
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SENSITIVE
Is it a skin type or skin condition? Well, BOTH. You can be born with sensitive skin genetically, or you can develop sensitized skin from the many stressors of the environment, stress, and so on. Sensitive skin is super fragile, thin, and prone to redness and irritation. If you have sensitive skin, you want to avoid all things harsh, such as chemicals and exfoliants. The main goals for sensitive skin are to soothe, calm and protect.
- Skin feels itchy and tight.
- Gets oily in summers, dry in winter
- Easily reacts to skincare
- Skin prone to redness
TIPS TO REMEMBER
Active skincare ingredients need time to work, some two weeks and some up to eight weeks, so try practicing patience; it will pay off. Skincare is sometimes trial and error even if a pro has recommended you a product; you want to introduce products one at a time to observe your skin's reaction.
Keeping in mind, the FDA does little to regulate cosmetic ingredients; understandably, you'd want to make you're using the safest ingredients possible. But today, terms like cleanbeauty and all-natural are buzzwords than anything else. These terms don't have set definitions and aren't regulated by the FDA, so companies can define clean beauty however they want and give themselves that label.
The type of lifestyle you live plays a significant role in skin health. High-stress levels and unhealthy habits like smoking can throw skin out of wack. And yes, what you eat matters too; a diet high in antioxidants will pair with topical antioxidants and result in glowing skin, while sugar and dairy might cause breakouts.
Above all, remember skincare reminds us, we are worthy of care.